Koh Chang from Pattaya: Where I Had My First Job in Thailand

Koh Chang is definitely worth the four-hour trip from Pattaya. I should know: it's where I had my first job in Thailand, and in the 20 years since I've been back about 30 times.

My first job in Thailand

When I first arrived, I lived on Koh Chang for nearly a year, working at a restaurant called 15 Palms on White Sands Beach. I also helped set up Paddy's Palms, which sadly closed a number of years ago. 15 Palms is still going strong, and I'm still good friends with the owners.

Getting there

It's about three and a half hours by road to the ferry, then about half an hour on the ferry, so just over four hours door to door. As far as I know there are no big buses from Pattaya. Most people take a minibus, around ฿800, or rent a car. A taxi is about ฿3,000.

You can take a car on the ferry. Fares went up in April 2026 because of fuel prices, and it's now about ฿280 for a car plus ฿130 per person each way. Still good value.

You need a car

Koh Chang is one island where you really need a car, especially with a family. You can rent a motorbike, but with kids a car is the way to go.

One warning: the roads are steep and winding, particularly heading south from White Sands to Bang Bao. Take it slowly.

Where to stay

Get off the ferry and almost everyone turns right. The west coast is where the good beaches and clear water are. The east coast faces the mainland at Trat, so the sand and water aren't the same.

The first beach you reach is Hat Sai Khao, White Sands Beach. That's where most of the hotels, restaurants and people are.

About 30 minutes further on is Lonely Beach. It's less developed and quieter, and I'd say its beaches are a little cleaner and nicer, though White Sands is lovely too.

What to do

Snorkelling. This is the one I'd really recommend. You can hire a private speedboat or join a bigger boat with 20 or 30 other people and island-hop. I've done both and they're great days out. Last time I hired a private speedboat with my family and we visited some lovely little coves. It wasn't a massive amount of money. If you're more adventurous, scuba diving is popular too.

Waterfalls. Worth a visit in the rainy season. In the high season, when most people go, there's often little or no water in them.

Bang Bao. The fishing village in the south. There isn't a huge amount there, but it's worth a look.

Drive round the island. If you have a car, drive round the other side of the island. There are plenty of coffee shops and places to stop and look out over the sea.

Otherwise it's trekking, coffee shop hopping and hanging out on the beach.

The restaurants will surprise you

The quality of the restaurants surprises most people. Several have really good food and unique settings, on the side of a cliff or right on the water's edge. There are some good Mexican and Italian places, and I spent a lot of time last trip in the restaurant area at Lonely Beach.

It's barely changed in 20 years

When I lived there 20 years ago, I expected Koh Chang to develop fast, like Phuket, Pattaya and, to a degree, Hua Hin. It's a big island and reasonably easy to reach. But it really hasn't. Most of it is national park, and it's been well protected. There are still very few big chain hotels.

When to go and how long to stay

I usually spend Christmas on Koh Chang. It's a great time to go: it isn't too hot, lots of my friends go too, and it's brilliant for the kids on the beach.

We normally stay three or four days, which is enough once you know it. First time, I'd stay four or five days, possibly a week.

If you need a car for the trip, Pattaya Rent a Car can help, and before you go, read driving in Pattaya.

This is part of my series on trips from Pattaya: Koh Chang, Kanchanaburi, Bang Saen, Bang Saray, Sukhothai, Khao Yai and Rayong. For shorter outings, read the best day trips from Pattaya.